So glad you’re taking some dahlias home! Please open your package as soon as you can. Your tubers have been carefully stored and they’re already starting to “eye up.” From here on out, a little good care on your end makes all the difference.
Dahlia tuber care made easy: learn how to store and plant dahlia tubers, with simple watering tips for healthy plants.
Quick note on timing: if anything seems off (missing variety, major damage, rot, etc.), please message me within 48 hours of pick up so I can help right away. After that, tuber condition really depends on home storage conditions, so care becomes the customer’s responsibility.
1) Open & Inspect (Do This Right Away)
• Unpack your tubers right away. Each tuber has the variety written on it—keep the names with the right tubers.
• Watch for anything concerning like big soft spots, active mould, or a strong bad smell. (I’ve just packed them -they are perfectly good)
• Little scuffs or surface blemishes are totally normal from dividing and handling.

Size does not matter for the most part with tubers. Many prefer smaller tubers. Dahlias will grow a full size plant with tubers in one season even from a seed!

They’ve been in long winter storage and ready to be potted up!
2) Eyes & Sprouts (“Eyeing Up”)
Here’s the key thing to know -dahlias only sprout from eyes (little growth buds) on the crown—that’s the spot where last year’s stem was attached. The tuber itself is the “storage” part. If a tuber is broken off without any crown/neck attached, it won’t grow. Many tubers show eyes as tiny pink/white nubs, but some are shy until they warm up a bit.
• Can’t spot eyes yet? I only pack eyed-up tubers. No worries—set tubers in a bright, frost free spot around 10–18°C for 7–14 days. The buds usually swell up and become easier to see.
• Try not to park them right on a heat vent or radiator—too much heat can dry them out fast.
• Please don’t wash tubers. Keep them dry until you’re ready to pot or plant.
3) If You Are Storing Tubers (Not Potting Yet)
• Cool and frost free: aim for roughly 4–10°C (a cold room is great—just not freezing).
• Keep them dark: darkness helps slow down early sprouting.
• Barely moist (not wet): you don’t want them shrivelling, but too much moisture can cause rot.
• A little airflow is your friend: avoid sealing tubers in an airtight bag with no packing material.
• If your tubers came with a slightly dry packing material, you can keep them tucked in it. If anything feels damp, open things up and let tubers air dry for a few hours, then pack them back up loosely. Don’t let dry out either.
• Have a peek every couple of days at this point.

If a tuber starts to go soft, remove it so it doesn’t affect the others.
4) Potting Up Right Away (Recommended for Early Growth)
• Use a pot with drainage holes. I usually start mine in 4″ pots, then pot up as they grow.
• Fill with a light potting mix that’s slightly moist (not soggy).

Promix HP or BX works well, and you can add a bit of perlite for extra drainage.
• Lay the tuber horizontally, with the crown/eyes facing up if you can spot them.
• Cover with about 2–5 cm (1–2 in) of mix. You can always add a bit more later once shoots are up.
• Then the hardest part: don’t overwater. Wait to water again until you see growth and the top inch of mix feels dry. Overwatering before sprouting is the #1 way tubers rot.

• Keep them in bright light and in a warm area. Give the pots a little turn now and then so they grow nice and straight.
Once shoots are growing strongly, take 7–10 days to “harden off” (a gradual move to outdoor conditions). Plant outdoors only after the risk of frost has passed.

5) Planting Outdoors
• Sun: dahlias love sun—aim for 6+ hours a day.
• Soil: well drained is the goal. If your soil is heavy, mix in compost and consider planting on a small mound or in a raised bed.
• Depth: set the crown about 10–15 cm (4–6 in) below the soil surface.
• Spacing: usually 45–60 cm (18–24 in) apart (give big varieties a bit more room).
• Watering: water in after planting, then water deeply as needed once growth is established. (They don’t love “wet feet,” so avoid constantly soggy soil.)
• Feeding: once plants are actively growing, feed with a balanced fertilizer. Go easy on high nitrogen fertilizers (too much can mean lots of leaves and fewer flowers).
6) Growth Tips: Pinching, 

• Pinch for a fuller plant: when the main stem is about 20–30 cm (8–12 in) tall (usually 3–4 sets of leaves), pinch out the growing tip just above a set of leaves.
• Deep watering beats frequent sprinkling: once established, water well and then let the soil dry a bit between waterings. Mulch helps a lot in summer.
• Deadhead for more blooms: snip off spent flowers to keep the plant flowering. Cut back to a leaf joint.
7) Staking & Support (Do This Early)
• Pop your stake in at planting time (or as soon as you plant out). Putting stakes in later can accidentally skewer tubers and roots.
• Use a sturdy stake (bamboo, metal, or hardwood) and tie the main stem loosely with soft ties. Add a new tie as the plant grows (don’t strangle it!).
• If you can, choose a spot with a little wind protection—tall dahlias can act like sails.
8) Troubleshooting
• Tubers are shrivelling in storage: it’s likely too warm/dry. Move them cooler and add a slightly damp (not wet) packing material, or lightly mist the packing material—never soak the tuber.
• Tubers are soft/mushy: that usually means too wet or rot starting. Separate it from the others. If it’s minor, trim away the soft part with a clean knife and let the cut dry before storing again. (If rot is extensive, it’s best to discard.) If you have it, a little sulfur powder on fresh cuts can help.
• No sprouts yet: some varieties are just slower—give it time and gentle warmth. As long as the tuber is still firm and the crown is intact, you’re usually fine. Only tubers that showed eyes were packed.